Bhutan is known as one of the happiest countries in the world, but Bleu Tshering Dorji believes happiness is subjective. “It is the pursuit of happiness and the process in which we seek it that matters. That is what the Gross National Happiness Index is about,” she says.
The chef-owner of two restaurants, The Secret Garden and Phangu, in Thimphu, Bhutan, is passionate about sourcing and showcasing the finest ingredients from the country’s bountiful landscape. This desire to bridge cultures through the universal language of food brings her happiness.
How would you describe Bhutan’s culinary landscape?
Bhutanese cuisine is characterised by crops that grow according to its geographical disposition. The diet is heavy in carbs, fats, and protein. Dry meat and vegetables are eaten because of the high altitude and severe weather. It might seem like there’s not much variety and flavour, but there’s more than meets the eye. You must like chillies to appreciate Bhutanese food. The way in which we use them —dried, fresh, grounded, or blanched—almost defies one’s imagination.
What are three traditional Bhutanese dishes to try?
Ema Datshi, a spicy stew made with chillies and cottage cheese, is the national dish. Next, Sikam Paa, which translates to cold dried pork. Thin slices of pork belly are dried in the cold until they become translucent, then cooked with sun-dried red chillies,
dried turnip leaves, daikon, and fresh
greens. Finally, Nya Dohtsen, a stoned-pressed, smoked fish, is a delicacy cooked with butter, garlic, and chillies, then stewed until it’s tender.
What is your favourite ingredient to work with?
Freshly foraged mushrooms. They are perfect in risotto, grilled on an open flame with compound butter, or for pickling and garnishing. In Bhutan, there are over 90 species of edible mushrooms, including morel, matsutake, and chanterelle. Each has a unique flavour and texture that allows it to pair beautifully with foraged herbs and locally sourced ingredients.
Any recommendations for travellers visiting Bhutan for the first time?
Venture into rural Bhutan, explore the unexplored, and see the country for what
it truly is. Embrace the simplicity of life on a farm and meet the people of rural communities who live the same way they did decades ago. Clusters of villages with traditional houses still cook on open flames, while acres of paddy fields surround stone-paved paths and courtyards.
