The partnership between Audemars Piguet and Carolina Bucci, a London-based Florentine jeweller known for her ultra-feminine and colourful jewellery designs in 2016, seemed like the beginning of a love story. The collaboration birthed the first Royal Oak Frosted Gold, a dazzling iteration of one of watchmaking’s most timeless icons.
The Frosted Gold finish, which effortlessly captures and reflects light, is the result of an ancient Florentine technique adapted by Bucci, a fourth-generation jeweller and long-time collaborator of Audemars Piguet. This technique involves creating tiny indentations on the gold surface through rapid, repeated strikes with an automated diamond-tipped tool, a process that requires immense skill. The result is a spangled effect that is a testament to the craftsmanship involved.
Although the technique has been mastered in-house by Audemars Piguet’s craftsmen, perfecting it took numerous trials. Today, only a select few of them have mastered this Florentine method.
Mini but Mighty
As a result, this treatment is reserved for a few precious watches, such as this year’s reinterpretation of the Mini Royal Oak. Originally introduced in 1997, this 20mm ticker remains the smallest Royal Oak ever made. Now, 27 years later, Audemars Piguet reintroduces this cherished model with the new Royal Oak Mini. Measuring just 23mm in diameter, it is available in yellow, white, or pink gold. This new version not only builds on the brand’s storied legacy but reimagines the proportions, architecture, design, and performance of the smallest Royal Oak ever made.
Designed for those with slender wrists, the Royal Oak Mini adapts to modern lifestyles. Its quartz movement boasts over seven years of battery life. The calibre 2730 includes a convenient “switch” that allows the wearer to temporarily deactivate the battery by pulling the crown.
Eschewing gemstones, the Royal Oak Mini employs the Frosted Gold finish that glitters effortlessly under light. The striking contrast between the diamond-dust effect of the Frosted Gold and polished bevels creates a dynamic play of light, while the satin finishes on the case and bracelet add depth and texture. The solid caseback, featuring sandblasting, satin brushing, and polishing, complements the overall design.
The dial’s tone-on-tone Petite Tapisserie pattern enhances the luminous effect of the Frosted Gold. Facetted gold hour markers filled with luminescent material ensure visibility in the dark. Aside from the brand signature at 12 o’clock, the guilloché dial remains free of superfluous details, epitomising understated elegance.
Golden Hour
Among the trio of novelties boasting this scintillating finish, the Royal Oak Mini stands alongside the Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding 34mm and the Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding 37mm. The latter, presented in yellow gold, features a smoked gold dial with a sunburst finish, adding a rich contrast and depth to the watch.
Yellow gold Royal Oak watches are indeed rare. The first model appeared in 1977, but the metal was gradually overshadowed by pink gold in the 2000s. Yellow gold made a notable comeback in 2018 and has since been attracting considerable attention.
The golden dial harmonises with the yellow gold case, enhancing the timepiece’s luminous aesthetic. This warm hue is achieved through a galvanic bath and accentuated by the dial’s sunburst finish. After colouring, a smoked effect is applied to the dial using a black spray varnish, creating a striking contrast with the yellow gold.
This delicate process is performed entirely by hand with a pen-like tool, demanding exceptional skill and precision to achieve a refined finish. The gradient effect is sprayed from the dial’s edge towards the centre and back out, resulting in a darker periphery that lightens towards the centre, seamlessly blending without visible lines. Faceted yellow gold hour markers and Royal Oak hands, enriched with luminescent material, ensure optimal legibility in the dark and stand out against the smoked gold dial.
The Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding features the calibre 5900, a self-winding movement with a 60-hour power reserve. The movement is visible through the sapphire caseback and boasts refined decoration and a 22k pink gold oscillating weight.
Click here to discover the Royal Oak Mini and Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding 37mm.
