Creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli is a master at subtle theatrics—well, subtle in the way that he grabs onto a seemingly simple element and then twists and turns it in as many ways as imaginable. That was again the case for Valentino’s autumn/winter 2023 runway show.
Referred to as ‘Black Tie’, the autumn/winter 2023 collection was a study in uniformity versus conformity where the tie—black and a number of coloured or white variants—became a tool to showcase how homogeny can highlight unique differences and personalities. In essence, conformity in Piccioli’s eyes doesn’t need to mean looking the same as everyone else.
The first look took the black tie to quite an extreme. What appeared as though it were a normal black dress was actually shaped to be an oversized black tie fixed to a white shirt collar before wrapping around the body of the model. There were a few of such tropes repeated—some a bit more subtle in construction. But what ran throughout the autumn/winter 2023 collection was the presence of a standard shirt collar acting as the anchor for the collection’s series of ties.
In some ways, looking at the collection as a whole, there were inflections of a boarding school type of uniformity and perhaps an inclination that’s difficult to avoid given the design element of choice. It’s like the cast of Gossip Girls on steroids; each look featured a tie but none of the looks were even remotely similar or at the very least, shared a similar vibe.
There were the standard suit and tie pairings for both men and women. But also long and mini skirts for men. The ties themselves were relatively plain throughout save for a few that were adorned with a V-shaped hardware right at the tip—definitely a piece I’d want for myself.
The reimaginings weren’t only restricted to ties however. Shirts—in this case, pretty much an accessory to the tie—came out in various permutations. At times they were severely slashed or cropped, fitted with exaggeratedly oversized cuffs, or even riddled with classic couture feathers. Shirt dresses too came in a variety of lengths and proportions with some hemmed with feathered skirting for an undoubtedly flirty number.
The issue of the tie has been a recurring topic in the menswear space for as long as I can remember, with those who care little for it often decrying its relevance in present day. I’m not saying that with Valentino’s autumn/winter 2023 collection, Piccioli has made it cool again to wear a tie; maybe this could be the start of incorporating it into the way we dress without needing such traditional formality anymore.
The old always becomes new in fashion anyway—so goes the enduring legacy of the humble tie.
View the full Valentino autumn/winter 2023 collection at the gallery below.
