Few things are as captivating as the sea, with its quiet poetry, hidden drama, and promise of discovery. In light of this, Tiffany & Co.’s Blue Book 2025: Sea of Wonder invites us into the deep blue with high jewellery that drifts between the real and the surreal.
Designed by Nathalie Verdeille, Chief Artistic Officer of Jewelry and High Jewelry, the collection reinterprets the ocean through the eyes of Jean Schlumberger, whose marine inspired masterpieces still shimmer in the brand’s archives.
Tiffany & Co.’s Blue Book, of course, has embodied its most daring creations since 1845. This year’s edition immerses us in an otherworldly dreamscape adorned with sapphire-encrusted seahorses, wave crests glittering with cuprian elbaite, starfish sparkling like delicate trinkets, and other fantasies shaped by an artist’s hand.
This spring, the first five chapters—Ocean Flora, Seahorse, Sea Turtle, Starfish, Urchin, and Wave—were unveiled in New York, each featuring its own vignette within the larger narrative.
As Zambian emeralds seem to drift across diamond tendrils, the Ocean Flora chapter, which emphasises extraordinary diamonds, illustrates the elegance of marine plants in motion. Included is a ring with a D-colour Type IIa, internally flawless cushion-cut diamond weighing over 16.5 cts.
In the Seahorse suite, Schlumberger’s 1968 brooches are reinvented with a mix of irreverence and refinement. Especially brilliant is a necklace set with over 83 cts of blue zircons, whose crisp clarity plays beautifully against sapphires, moonstones, and diamonds, all arranged in an architectural setting of gold and platinum. A matching brooch, while expressing these creatures as both regal and whimsical, showcases a precision that conceals the intricacy of its construction.
With a softer tone, Sea Turtle offers an ode to quiet resilience. Referencing 1961 Blue Book designs, the chapter explores geometry and movement. A pendant that transforms into a brooch via a hidden mechanism offers versatility and a sense of continuity, much like its namesake’s journey from land to sea and back.
In the Starfish chapter, a 1956 Schlumberger brooch sparks a series that elevates the sea star into something sculptural and abstract. Mozambique rubies take centre stage, their intensity softened by rose-cut and pave diamonds, while yellow gold lends warmth. The craftsmanship is notably tactile, with cutting techniques creating richly textured surfaces designed to be both seen and felt.
With its naturalistic forms and surrealistic touches, Urchin draws inspiration from unexpected references, such as a 1961 sea urchin table clock. The jewellery, however, explores more imaginative territory, as yellow diamonds dazzle against an innovative and technically challenging setting distinguished by loops of yellow gold rope. In some pieces, paillonne enamel adds a soft sparkle, like the reflection of sunlight caught on a shell’s edge.
With a surge of energy, Wave closes the spring debut. Layered, articulated, and strikingly voluminous, these creations “move”. One necklace in particular sweeps fluidly over the collarbone, its diamonds set against tourmalines of rare, electric-blue intensity, paying quiet tribute to Schlumberger’s famed Leaves necklace, which belonged to his close friend Bunny Mellon. The subtle but meaningful reference links this chapter of design to a legacy of form, friendship, and the pursuit of beauty in nature that never stands still.
