In Tay Su-Lyn’s case, the way to her heart is through her stomach, and like most Singaporeans, she enjoys anything spicy and deep-fried. It’s the day before the reopening of Violet Oon Singapore Ion Orchard, and Tay—the elder child of founder Violet Oon—is striking poses at the Dempsey flagship for our cover shoot, dressed head-to-toe in Louis Vuitton.
“What if I wore the ring on my left finger instead of my right? Should I try a different pose? Maybe I should lean more to the left?” Tay, a former model and designer, offers helpfully to the crew.
While she has an eye for fashion, it’s food that truly stirs her soul. In 2012, she and her brother Yiming opened Violet Oon’s Kitchen in Bukit Timah, driven by a desire to safeguard the culinary traditions they grew up with.
Not that she needs to diet, but resisting temptation is no small feat when surrounded by indulgences like her mother’s Hati Babi Bungkus—savoury pork liver balls perfumed with toasted coriander seeds and notoriously laborious to prepare. “I know this will annoy some people, but I’ve never dieted on this job,” Tay laughs.
As the Director and Creative Director, she also oversees concept development, marketing, and interior design for Violet Oon Singapore’s three restaurants. Tay’s ambition is to take Peranakan cuisine to the world: “I want to preserve my mother’s recipes and pass on the stories of our heritage to the next generation.”
Meanwhile, Tay gets served another portion of questions, from her mother this time!
What legacy do you want to build?
The food of my Peranakan heritage is both very yummy and deeply precious. In our family, these dishes are a language of love, and I want our future generations to enjoy and celebrate these flavours.
How do you handle criticism?
I get curious—what can we improve? What might I have missed? I try to treat feedback as a gift, and a chance to see my blind spots. Sometimes, however, it is best taken with a pinch of salt as well.
Is it hazardous to be Violet Oon’s daughter?
No, it is delicious! This is despite the fact that I had to call you years ago from the US to ask how to cook nasi lemak for 400 friends.
While catering for a wedding in June 2014, I suffered a stroke. When that happened, what went through your mind?
You showed strength, positive thinking, and resilience. You worked hard to overcome challenges with your speech, sight, and balance. Then you taught cooking in the hospital pantry! My first indication that you were recovering well was when you asked for your hairspray and favourite peach lipstick.
One thing you do better than me?
Applying makeup!
Book your table here.
Photography Stefan Khoo
Styling Chia Wei Choong
Hair Sean Ang
Makeup Keith Bryant Lee
Styling assistant Annalisa Lim
Photography assistant Alif
