Tanica, whose name is an amalgamation of “botanical” and “tannins”, is the new kid on the block at The Singapore Edition. The contemporary Asian restaurant replaces Fysh, which closed after Australian celebrity chef Josh Niland departed.
Rather than chasing avant-garde trends, like fishbone noodles or vanilla ice cream blended with fish eyes, the menu offers familiar, elevated riffs on Asian staples with thoughtful twists.
I’m drawn to the Asam Pedas Seafood Risotto, which reminds Mandy Goh, the hotel’s executive chef, of her childhood. Rice is slow-cooked in a sour-spicy broth and topped with ama ebi (sweet shrimp) for sweetness, as well as sea grapes and grilled wing beans for a refreshing crunch. Appetising and hearty, it marries the tang of tamarind with chilli’s heat.
“I have loved assam pedas since I was young because of its spicy tang. Incorporating it into risotto lets me hold on to those memories and express who I am as a chef today,” she says.
Born and raised in Penang, Goh grew up immersed in the rich tapestry of hawker culture and home-cooked meals. She learnt to cook at the tables of her mother and grandmother, both of whom were meticulous in the kitchen.
At 21, she was part of the all-female Malaysian national team that competed in the 2010 Bocuse d’Or Asia. In the competition’s history, this was the first time an all-female team had won the gold medal.
Goh used to be the executive chef at The RuMa Hotel and Residences in Kuala Lumpur, where she led Atas restaurant to recognition on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Discovery list in 2023. Later, she took on senior positions at the Conrad Koh Samui and Alila Seminyak hotels.
Tanica prioritises local and regional produce. “It is easier to source, the ingredients arrive faster, and they are so much fresher”. Torch ginger, kaffir lime, and pandan are some of her favourites. “Torch ginger is so aromatic and gives a dish a floral lift. The bright acidity of kaffir lime cuts through spice, almost like a palate cleanser between bites. Pandan is a familiar, comforting flavour for me. It’s fresh and fragrant, and it always tastes like home,” she says.
A frequent choice among her appetisers is the Charcoal Grilled Indonesian Squid, whose tender flesh takes on a smoky char from the grill. This is enhanced by with pickled watermelon rind, sawtooth coriander, and a torch ginger dressing that add a bright contrast.
For mains, XO Mapo Tofu Lobster pairs grilled rock lobster with silken mapo tofu, asparagus, and minced chicken, all brought together by Tanica’s bacon XO sauce. High heat from the wok unlocks flavour depth in this sharing serving. Another standout is the Black Sambal Murray Cod, whose mild, flaky flesh meshes wonderfully with the spicy, smoky sambal.
Dessert is a must. Similar to the savoury menu, its sweets feature flavours like cempedak and calamansi. I will return for the creamy, comforting Soya Milk & Lemongrass Creme Brulee. Familiar in form, it bridges local ingredients with high-end culinary technique. So delicious.
“What I would love most is if our guests became regulars and told me our food tasted like home cooking. Also, that the space felt warm and inviting, somewhere they wanted to return to again and again,” says Goh.
