It’s been over a year since Revolver opened its doors, but a seat at the open-fire, Indian cuisine-inspired restaurant remains one of the hottest—literally—tickets in town. Chef Saurabh Udinia’s steadfast dedication to fire, smoke and spice is a welcome respite in a town that, I must say, has been overrun with too many Japanese omakase restaurants. There’s only so much sushi, sashimi and soy sauce a city needs.
Bullet 8 is Saurabh’s latest salvo. As always, there’s a 5-course lunch menu. For dinner, you can pick from either the 7-course Discovery, the 9-course Experience and the 9-course Vegetarian. I recommend the Experience, if only for the spiced hamachi collar, a fresh and perfectly grilled, almost-deboned extravaganza that explodes in your mouth, thanks to the aromatic spices. It’s far and away the best item on the menu and will leave you asking for more. Saurabh is so dedicated to the fire that the wedge of lemon accompanying the fish is also grilled.
The fresh paneer remains a staple. Flown directly from Delhi thrice weekly, it’s paired with sweet mango and a dash of habanero this time, and is always a highlight at Revolver.
Typically, I don’t recommend going for the wine pairings that restaurants offer. You get more bang for your buck by just buying a bottle, or bringing one from your wine cellar. However, head sommelier Agnel Sathiananthan has such a warm disposition, and possesses a fervour I rarely see in other sommeliers, that I felt compelled to pay for the wine pairings just to bask in his excitement.
Other highlights include the romanesco with ginger tomato sauce, a taste that is reminiscent of the ayam masak merah sauce—sweet, creamy and spicy—from the iconic Malay wedding dish, and the Western Australian marron with coriander and mint butter. The latter had me uncomfortable at first; unfortunately, I’m one of those with the genetic anomaly of having coriander taste like soap on my tongue. I’m happy to report that the marron is more delicious than Dettol.
As we progressed through the courses, I realised that Bullet 8 didn’t seem as fiery as Revolver’s previous menus and asked Saurabh if he had toned down the spiciness. His answer was just as passionate as the grill behind him. “No, I haven’t. I remain true to my roots. Most people have the impression that Indian cuisine is hot, but it’s actually aromatic. This is what I’m going for Bullet 8—the aromatic spices.”
Australian marron with coriander and mint butter. 
Black truffle kulchette. 
Pāmu venison chop. 
Romanesco with ginger tomato sauce. 
Snack box with sago crab, burrata chaat and wagyu caviar tostada. 
Sea buckthorn with cherry and panjiri.
A surprising letdown was the Pāmu venison chop, which was tougher than I thought it would be. It didn’t fall off the bone like many other lamb dishes typically found in other fine dining restaurants. Still, the taste was sublime and the sauce accompanying the meat paid justice to it.
For those who like lightness and balance, you won’t find it at Revolver. Everything on the menu remains heavy and robust, and there is no let-up in flavours, except for the palate cleanser served in the middle. But, like the name, Bullet 8 is an experience from start to end and you’ll leave feeling satiated, spiced and smoked, just like Saurabh’s meats. It’s a good thing.
