Dinner at 8.30pm is the norm in Spain. In Oku, the Japanese-French omakase at the Regent Phu Quoc in Vietnam, I am just shown to my seat for An Ode To Spain: A Six-Hands Dinner at that same time.
At the left end of the counter, tapas master Ager Uriguen sits, slurping Hot and Cold Onion Soup. Of course, I can’t resist asking him his opinion. He takes another spoonful, and smiles: “This is something to make you think.”
Since shuttering his gastro-bar Txokoa in 2020, Bilbao-born Uriguen has focused on his role as co-founder of the Spanish Pantry Festival. An Ode To Spain in June is the first collaboration between the festival and Regent Phu Quoc.
I laugh. I remind him that I’ve only just got the leek soup out of my mind. As it turns out, two evenings before, Uriguen had been behind the counter with his Spanish culinary peers—David Montero, Benito Gomez, Javier Olleros, and Alejandro Paadin—collaborating on a six-course dinner for media from across Southeast Asia.
Gomez (Bardal) and Olleros (Culler de Pau) each hold two Michelin stars, with the latter a Michelin Green star too. Montero (Arroceria Ricepaella) is known for Valencian-style paella recipes. Sommelier Alejandro Paadin, also Uriguen’s co-founder at the Spanish Pantry Festival, is an esteemed wine judge.
By all accounts, the dinner is impressive, opening with Gomez’s Carabineros Curados: cured deep-sea prawn dressed with vinegar, olive oil, and herbs, and finished with caviar. So bright and briny, it pleases my palate instantly.
But the fourth course takes me in a completely different direction. I peer at Olleros’ Puerros Locales, glance at the diners on the opposite flank, spoon into the broth, and eat leek for the first time. My mother would be pleased.
Pairing the soup with A Coroa “200 Cestos” Godello, D.O. Valdeorras 2023 is an incredible move. Made from 100 percent Godello grapes grown exclusively in the Valdeaugas vineyard in Bibei Valley, its creamy-citrusy balance elevates the rich broth, giving the leek a friendlier character.
the intrigue of onion soup
Back at the Six-Hands Dinner, Ager, Paadin, and Regent Phu Quoc General Manager Juan Losada are deep in conversation. My onion soup arrives, and I take my first cautious sip. I’m not a fan of the root vegetable due to its raw taste and pungent odour.
I take another sip. The chilled foam gives way to a warm liquid, revealing a little bulb that melts softly in my mouth, sweet and smooth. I open my Notes app and type: “mystery thriller”. I turn to Ager, and he gives me a knowing smile. At 8.30pm, fatigue can dull the palate, but this onion soup holds my senses.
As the fifth of seven courses, it now bears the unenviable responsibility of pushing me, a small eater, on. Which leaves a lot for Oku chef de cuisine Andy Huynh to live up to with the final dishes. Still reeling from the lightness of the onion soup, I am not quite prepared for the depth of Fricando: thin slices of braised Japanese wagyu topped with a savoury potato furikake. I wonder if it’s rude to ask for white rice.
While the menu feels disjointed at certain points, the service at Oku is tip-top. Midway through dinner, a server asks before laying out a fresh set of cutlery, “Madam, you are a left-hander?” I reply, “Yes.” And he proceeds to switch the position of my spoon and fork. He is only the second server ever to do so.
Photo: Regent Phu Quoc
HAT PAINTING & FAN MAKING
By dessert, I’m beginning to miss my One Bedroom Pool Terrace Villa. Sprawled over 208 sqm, it comes with a living room, dining area, fully equipped kitchen, and infinity pool with chaise lounges and an outdoor shower.
My favourite thing to do during the stay, aside from concocting mocktails, is to decide which craft workshop to attend. I especially appreciate being able to book a class over the phone. When the Bamboo Basket Making workshop turns out to be full, reception suggests a few alternatives.
Vietnamese Hat Painting is tougher than expected. Depositing colour on palm leaves arranged into a conical shape requires three qualities—vision, decision, and precision—of which I have none. I steal glances at my fellow guests. They seem to know the drill; a couple Google ideas on their phones, while others have started asking for black paint.
I visualise sunny skies with lotuses of different sizes and colours floating among the clouds. The instructor looks at my finished piece and pronounces politely, “so cute,” before she fastens a ribbon strap to my hat. I skip happily back to my villa with it.
I fare a little better at Paper Fan Making, albeit just a notch. I recycle my Vietnamese hat design, only this time with smaller lotuses, brightly coloured clouds, and an emoji-style sun. I take a reel of it to post on my IG.
I never quite make it to the wellness sessions; we’d gone to Sunset Town and ended up returning late. To make up for this rebellion, I book a 60-minute aromatherapy massage at The Spa. As the therapist kneads away at my muscles, weary from the afternoon sun, I close my eyes. It’s ok, I remind myself, as thoughts of Body Stretching Class drift away.
WON OVER BY WAFFLES
A 298-key suites-and-villas-only resort offering both standalone accommodations and elevated residences, Regent Phu Quoc spans 35ha of beachfront grounds on Bai Truong (Long Beach), part of the broader Kien Giang Unesco World Biosphere Reserve off Vietnam’s southwest coast.
It faces the Gulf of Thailand, whose calmblue I keep spying throughout the day, during a pre-breakfast stroll by the shore, from the rooftop infinity pool on Level 10 of the Sky Wing, or while tucking into a seafood dinner at Ocean Club.
If I have to leave my villa, it is to pop into The Regent Club Library. Despite its name, I never had any intention to read or catch up on deadlines here. Instead, this becomes my favourite spot to enjoy lighter portions of no-less luxurious creations for breakfast, lunch, and afternoon tea. Occasionally, I consider lounging outside on a large cabana. Then I remember the UVs and retreat to my villa.
For most meals, I am at the Rice Market. Overwhelmed by too much to eat, I end up at the kids’ section. While most luxury resorts pay scant attention to what youngsters eat, Executive Pastry Chef Duyen Nguyen takes his assignment seriously.
The waffles and pancakes are light and fluffy, adorned with Smarties, marshmallows, and chocolate drizzle. There are white chocolate lollipops with rainbow sprinkles, and doughnuts with funny faces too. Luxury, I learn, is being allowed to eat like a child.
As I’m polishing off an eclair, a server appears, reminding me to drop by the pho station. I stare at her, then whisper, “But I don’t eat onions.” She laughs softly and offers, “No worries, Madam! I can order it for you. One pho with no onion, yes?”
Just don’t tell Benito Gomez.
Start planning your Regent Phu Quoc getaway here.
