Nature — especially water — continues to be an essential source of inspiration for Chaumet. After working through its different states — gas, liquid, and gas — the French jeweller takes to the high seas with the new Ondes et Merveilles de Chaumet high jewellery collection. The 69-piece suite is the first time the French jeweller has dedicated an entire collection to the sea.
A seafaring adventure to the corners of the earth, the collection is composed of nine distinct sets made up of majestic necklaces, statement earrings, whimsical brooches, tiaras, head jewels and toi et moi rings. Designed for contemporary wear, there are transformable pieces that make a variety of styles possible for modern women: a sautoir turns into a short necklace, a hair ornament doubles up as a brooch, and a climber earring that breaks apart to form an ear cuff and stud.
In the À Fleur d’Eau parure, Chaumet channels tidal energy to create irregularly shaped diamond-set pieces interspersed with marquise diamonds. The necklace is a showstopper: shaped to emulate undulating currents, it shimmers with every movement as it is fully articulated and set on different layers. A detachable pear-shaped diamond weighing 7.18 cts dangles suggestively from this masterpiece. A head jewel that can be separated into two brooches, a pair of dazzling earrings, each set with an oval diamond weighing around 2 cts and a ring set with an oval-cut D VVS2 diamond of 3 cts, are also part of the set.
In Gulfstream, Chaumet combines warm and cool-hued gemstones to symbolise the Gulf Stream, a strong ocean current that brings warm water from the Gulf of Mexico into the Atlantic Ocean. The adjustable sautoir, with its dangling pompom attached to a 19.84-ct black Australian opal, is breathtaking. It is further set with Paraiba tourmalines, carved chrysoprase, diamonds, emeralds, sapphires and a 5.39-ct sugarloaf emerald from Colombia.
Chaumet’s daring approach to colour pairing can be seen throughout this collection. The Escale set, for example, boldly combines brick-red spinels against a medley of white diamonds, Paraiba tourmalines, and sapphires that evoke translucent waters. In the Chant de Sirènes and Comète des Mers parures, Chaumet exhibits flawless colour harmony. Ice-green tourmalines perfectly complement green-tinted Tahitian pearls while a jewel-encrusted starfish set with Padparadscha sapphires and fancy sapphires is enhanced by natural pearls in shades of light grey, mauve and olive.
The high jeweller’s mastery over traditional jewellery crafts is also reflected in the collection. The Galets d’Or set, for example, is a demonstration of Chaumet’s superior goldsmithing prowess, while the Chasse aux Trésors brooch shows off its lapidary skills. The former comprises a ring and pair of earrings that resemble weathered pebbles because of their shape and hand-engraved surfaces. Adorning the rose gold forms are morganite and diamonds set in a cut-down setting mimicking water trails. Painstakingly crafted to resemble coral, the Chasse aux Trésors brooch is a sculptural masterpiece made of gold, titanium, and chrysoprase.
Chaumet also presented a collection of unisex brooches, Encres, which playfully interpret nautical tattoos. Each conceals a pendant ring that can be hung on a gold chain and worn as a necklace. The parure also includes a watch with a Swiss mechanical movement and a dial decorated by acclaimed enamel artist Anita Porchet. Featuring a diamond-set albatross flying through a turquoise sky, it is another example of Chaumet’s transformation of nature into a celebration of modern femininity.
