The seventh edition of LVMH Watch Week, held along Milan’s Via Montenapoleone, represents a significant shift in its approach to watchmaking. While the luxury industry continues to face slower global growth and rapid consolidation, LVMH has been positioning its timepieces as the ultimate symbol of luxury.
Based on our observations, the conglomerate appears to be betting on exquisite craftsmanship and limited-edition releases to drive growth in the challenging year ahead. Here are the highlights.
Bvlgari
Bvlgari’s most scintillating contribution is the Maglia Milanese Monete secret watch. It revives a house signature from the 1960s, centred on a 2nd-century silver denarius depicting the Roman emperor Caracalla. While the coin provides a link to antiquity, the technical interest lies in the bracelet: for the first time, Bvlgari is using a Renaissance-style mesh originally devised by Milanese goldsmiths.
Piccolissimo BVP100, the world’s smallest round mechanical calibre, drives the watch. Designed with a sapphire caseback and a crown-winding system, the watch measures just 12.30mm in diameter and allows you to see the mechanical architecture beneath its precious gold exterior.
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Daniel Roth
The watchmaker’s revival enters a new phase with the Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton, its first historical departure since it was relaunched under La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. As a strategic move to transition the brand from merely a heritage revival, it introduces skeletonised architecture that did not exist during the house’s original tenure.
Running the watch is the new calibre DR002SR, a shaped manual-wind movement made entirely of solid 5N rose gold and designed to fit Daniel Roth’s unique geometry without impacting its 4 Hz frequency or 65-hour power reserve. The finish is the highlight for collectors: every stage is performed in-house, from bevelling to black polishing, demonstrating its mastery of traditional techniques.
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Gérald Genta
The brand embraces a practical approach as part of its resurgence with the Gérald Genta Geneva Time Only, offering two 38-mm editions that represent a strategic move towards everyday luxury expressed through its signature sculptural design.
With a broader, single-lug design, the 1970s cushion-shaped case has been structurally refined to be softer and slimmer. Available in rose gold (Marrone) and white gold (Grafite), the technical high point is the dual-segment dial construction. A circular inner track and a cushion-shaped outer track combine to create a sophisticated optical illusion that showcases the unique geometry of the case. With a 50-hour power reserve and a 4Hz frequency, the watches are powered by an automatic Zenith Elite GG-005P movement.
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Hublot
Hublot kicks off the year with exciting collaboration launches. Among them, we like the one with tennis superstar Novak Djokovic, also its brand ambassaor. In the Big Bang Tourbillon Goat Edition, Djokovic’s Lacoste polo shirts and head racquets are incorporated into the case as a material biography. Marbled material reinforced with a titanium polymer container results in a lightweight 56-g ball designed to withstand professional G-forces.
The watch eschews the traditional mainplate for a laser-engraved 3D lattice that resembles tennis racquet strings and houses the MHUB6035 automatic tourbillon. Each aesthetic choice also serves as a career metric for Djokovic: 72 pieces are blue (hard court), 21 are orange (clay), and eight are green (grass). In a break from typical limited-edition designs, the 101 Big Bang Tourbillon Goat Edition watches are also numbered but not limited.
In addition, Hublot has committed to producing an extra serialised timepiece for every future tournament victory Djokovic secures. By using chemically strengthened Gorilla Glass and “tennis ball” titanium screws, it aims to redefine the high-complication sports watch for collectors with this highly specific performance-focused creation.
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Louis Vuitton
The Escale from Louis Vuitton, originally launched in 2024 as a time-only collection, now includes complications, notably the Escale Worldtime Tourbillon. Offered in platinum, it now features a 24-city flag ring enhanced with grand feu enamel, requiring over 40 firings and 80 hours of handwork.
It is powered by the LFT VO 05.01 movement, which has a central flying tourbillon integrated into the world-time function. To accommodate this design, La Fabrique du Temps’ watchmakers reimagined the movement’s structure as the central tourbillon within the rotating city disc needed a shared focal point. The star-shaped Monogram flower tourbillon cage serves as the watch’s visible pulse, completing one rotation per minute.
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Tiffany & Co.
If you have encountered the Tiffany Timer in the wild, consider yourself fortunate. As only 60 pieces have been produced, there appears to be only one available for purchase in Singapore. This release not only marks the 160th anniversary of the house’s first stopwatch, the 1866 Tiffany & Co. Timing Watch, but also represents a rare link between the brand’s high jewellery pedigree and its Swiss horological workshop.
A faceted crown echoes the iconic six-pronged Tiffany Setting on the 40-mm polished platinum case. Additionally, the meticulously crafted Tiffany Blue lacquered dial, which required 50 hours of precise handwork, has diamond baguettes marking the hours and showcasing the house’s gemstone mastery.
At the heart of this watch is a custom El Primero 400 movement, a high-frequency chronograph calibre that reveals its most whimsical detail behind the sapphire caseback: a reproduction of Jean Schlumberger’s Bird on a Rock measuring 1.4cm in diameter. On top of the open-worked, winding rotor, the motif transforms a technical necessity into a work of art, reinforcing LVMH’s commitment to positioning timepieces.
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Tag Heuer
Tag Heuer continues its revival of maritime heritage with the reintroduction of the Seafarer, a watch originally commissioned by Abercrombie & Fitch’s president in 1949. Incorporating the historic Solunl arcomplication into the brand’s distinctive glassbox design, the new Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Seafarer represents a technological advancement. Its highlight is the all-new in-house TH20-04 calibre, an automatic movement with a vertical clutch and column wheel designed to track the high- and low-tide cycles over a 29.53-day lunar period.
Aside from its innovative functionality, the watch also has a stunning aesthetic: an opaline champagne dial plated with yellow gold and adorned with trademark Intrepid Teal accents. Finally, an elegant nod to mid-century tool watches is the seven-row steel bracelet.
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Zenith
Zenith’s 2026 strategy remains anchored in the structural evolution of the Defy collection, specifically its first skeletonised tourbillon in the Skyline series. Transparency is the primary architectural component of the Defy Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton, stripping away the dial to reveal a high-frequency, automatic El Primero 3630 SK that oscillates at 5 Hz.
The blue PVD-treated mainplate and bridges leverage a double-tiered sloping geometry to mimic contemporary cantilevered architecture. Zenith’s emblematic central star is also incorporated into the mechanism’s structural geometry. Featuring an integrated quick-change strap system and a 41-mm rose gold chassis, the watch is limited to 50 pieces.
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