No matter which end of the fashion spectrum you gravitate towards, there’s no denying the dependable allure of Uniqlo U. The more fashion-forward arm of Uniqlo is helmed by artistic director Christophe Lemaire — also one-half of the duo behind his own label Lemaire — and has quickly become favoured for its timeless, elevated staples at an affordable price point.
In a lot of ways, Uniqlo U’s aesthetic leans towards what Christophe has already established at Lemaire. Generous cuts, streamlined designs with a function-first approach are combined with Uniqlo’s slate of technologies and innovations.
For autumn/winter 2022, Christophe expands the idea of an essential wardrobe (pretty much the overarching concept behind Uniqlo U) with a genderless approach. The design teams worked together to create a concise collection teemed with genderless offerings designed with boxy silhouettes and roomy proportions.
It’s little surprise by now that women have been shopping at men’s departments, and men are now even more open to the idea of buying from the women’s racks. Uniqlo U’s autumn/winter 2022 is poised to make it even more accessible.
Christophe shares more about the Uniqlo U autumn/winter 2022 collection and why going the genderless route was important this time around.
This is the most concise Uniqlo U collection to date with 50 pieces in total. Why is that?
We are aiming to make and distribute only what’s necessary by having less pieces. A more concise collection pushes us to rethink function in our daily lives and our new habits, to redefine our needs. It’s an interesting exercise. We think a lot about the concept of a refined wardrobe — each piece should have a very precise function, being of use on its own but also working together by layering to create new functions.
Why was a genderless offering so important to you this season?
It came from observing people around us. It feels like a natural evolution of how we and the people around us dress. We see the garment as an open invitation. It’s more about personality and how an individual will interpret and integrate the garment into their wardrobe than it is about gender. The codes of how we are supposed to dress are not as rigid as they once were. Now we can see people becoming very free and creative with their use of garments. It is a natural step in how we conceive the collection.
The idea of a new take on minimalism is a concept you are constantly refining. How did that take shape this season?
We try to be straightforward, with an emphasis on how the piece is cut and how the fabric behaves — simple, high quality with a practical sense of beauty and refined colours. To go straight to the function influences the cuts and details, and it allows for the garment to be versatile, taking on a different role in different looks for different settings or occasions. The more versatile it is, the more timeless it will be. Also, we try to create garments that hopefully everyone — from different ages, social backgrounds, countries and regions — can understand and adapt to make their own; pieces that can last for a long time.
Which piece defines the spirit of this collection?
The pocketable long coat, because it’s so functional, practical and versatile. It can be used in so many ways by everybody, no matter their age or gender.
How did you and the Paris R&D Centre design team develop this season’s colour palette together?
The Uniqlo U DNA is colours that are interesting neutrals, rich and refined. It always starts with an instinctive desire for certain tones and colours; always fed by artists or photography exhibitions, movies, art books and people in the streets. Then it’s about finding the right shade and the right combinations of colours, to achieve a palette that feels easy and desirable, but also new and exciting.
Many of the pieces in the Uniqlo U autumn/winter 2022 collection use a cut-and-sew technique. Can you explain this concept and why you favour it?
Naturally, there has been an evolutionary shift in the way we dress. The T-shirt is one of the most universal pieces one could own. It’s a wardrobe essential for every one of us. At Uniqlo U, the cut-and-sew technique allows us to be bolder and more playful with colours. As designers we can step outside of our comfort zone and try out new things.
The Uniqlo U autumn/winter 2022 collection will launch on 23 September 2022.
