I don’t remember the last time I went a full day without crossing paths with a child. Even while traversing the rolling plains and hilltops of rural Mongolia, I’d run into nomadic herders and their broods every couple of hours.
However, as I tuck into dinner on my second night at Cempedak Island, I realise I haven’t once seen the shadow of an ankle biter since my arrival. Frankly, it is unsettling, especially since the property is just 9km off the east coast of Bintan, a beloved weekend getaway for both young and old Singaporeans. With love, I ask: where is all the scampering and screeching?
As it turns out, Cempedak Island only welcomes guests over the age of 16. With just 20 villas on the 17-ha property, each generously surrounded by verdant forests, privacy is guaranteed. It’s not just kids I don’t see. Given that the maximum number of guests at any one time is 40, I hardly run into other adults.
The naturally-ventilated, two-storey villas facilitate downtime. There is no TV and I didn’t come all this way to doomscroll on my phone, so I pick up a book, the ‘correct’ thing to do on holiday. By “all this way” I mean a three-hour journey involving a ferry, a car, and a speedboat. This is after all a destination off the beaten path.
Every villa has direct access to the beach or a view of the Riau Archipelago and an infinity pool. The point is to mindfully do nothing, I think, so I gaze into the horizon for long periods. I observe my thoughts come and go. Winding down isn’t always easy, but with a couple of drinks, it’s less challenging. Aside from the waves crashing in the distance and the incessant chirping of lizards, it’s deathly quiet.
A stay at Cempedak Island is full-board, so there is no need to factor in the cost of meals. There are a variety of breakfast options, and lunch and dinner include appetisers, mains, and desserts. I dare say the food is one of the island’s best features for the kitchen serves a fusion of Indonesian and international flavours, and showcase seasonal produce and tropical fruits on the menu. Also on site is a sizeable wine cellar.
My one gripe is that the lack of gym facilities—I feel sluggish with all the feasting. But there are a few activities to participate in. On land, guests can play tennis, rock climb or ride a mountain bike. In the sea, snorkel, kayak, or stand-up paddleboard.
Diving is also an option. While big schools of fish and large pelagic fish such as sharks and manta rays cannot be expected, it is not uncommon to spot turtles, stingrays, seahorses, and octopuses among the various underwater creatures in the area.
Not only is Cempedak Island big on sustainability, which among several things means sleeping under a ceiling fan instead of in air-conditioned comfort, it also makes sure to support local communities from Bintan and neighbouring islands.
This is done by sourcing supplies and services locally, and imparting skills to contractors and staff. The owners have been helping to fund two local foundations that combat environmental issues, one of which protects a Marine Protected Area. The other removes plastic from the coastal areas and disrupts the amount of plastic entering the sea from the local communities. Essentially, they channel efforts to give back.
I’ll be honest, it can be sweltering during the day. But while the villa has no air conditioning, it is well-shaded and cooling at night. Would I return? It’s always good to have an excuse to switch off—though probably not for more than three nights. The freedom from the clamouring of children is refreshing, but I’m still a true-blue Singaporean urbanite who has spent many a school holiday in Bintan.
