In a world that has become increasingly unpredictable and stressful people are being drawn to things they can count on. That is where the luxury market gets an upper hand as stalwart brands with their timeless icons and enduring pedigrees offer a measure of security. But let’s not forget that fundamentally such precious goods have to last — and Rolex for all the above qualities it already possesses is serious about keeping your watch ticking for at least a few lifetimes.
Reliability and durability were the tenets founder Hans Wilsdorf wanted to build Rolex upon. In addition to introducing industry-changing innovations like the waterproof Oyster case and spearheading an emphasis on unparalleled precision, Wilsdorf also established the Rolex World Service to ensure an after-sales service as impeccable as its timepieces.
To begin with watchmakers in the after-sales service workshops have to undergo an 18-month in-house training programme before they are allowed to carry out full servicing on Oyster movements. The reason for such a long training period is because of the sheer number of steps and special tools needed for a full service.
Once the watch passes into the hands of a watchmaker, the movement case and bracelet are separated as they go down different servicing paths. The movement undergoes a complete dismantling so that each component can be carefully examined to determine if it still meets Rolex’s stringent requirements. Those that don’t will be replaced by new ones while those that do are cleaned in an ultrasonic bath, dried, reassembled and lubricated before the dials and hands are refitted.
The case is repolished or satin-finished by hand in order to restore the metal’s sheen and lustre while removing any marks or scratches, and bracelets are no exception — each link gets the same painstaking treatment. Once the seals are replaced, the crystal bezel and middle case are reassembled before the watchmaker measures its accuracy once again making any adjustments necessary for it to achieve the expected chronometric performance.
When movement and case are reunited, the timepiece undergoes a 24-hour precision test as well as a pressure test in water. If everything checks out, the watch will go through a final control where its rate, functions and overall appearance are verified to be as good as new. The watch will also gain another two-year international guarantee that covers the parts and labour.
There is no need for an emergency trip to the Rolex World Headquarters in Geneva just because you dinged your ticker against the dining table. The Rolex World Service is present on all continents (except Antarctica), and each dedicated workshop — be it inside an official retailer or an affiliate — has one or more Rolex-certified watchmakers who are authorised to carry out the servicing of watches produced by the brand.
No task is too small for Rolex World Service. Even operations like adjusting the length of the bracelet or refinishing the case will be happily undertaken, and can be finished within the same day. Having a regular maintenance schedule for a mechanical watch is vital. If the lubricants or parts wear out, the detrimental effects to the movement will likely cost more time and money to remedy. Despite being aware of this owners of rare historic watches still may not commit to such maintenance. The reason is understandable: the watch’s parts may no longer exist. Many high-end watch brands keep a healthy stock of components for parts that often wear out the fastest, especially those found in popular models; but all bets are off for discontinued ones.
It is different at Rolex. Even if a model is pulled from the catalogue, the availability of parts and labour for it will be assured for at least 35 years after. Even if the parts are truly unavailable because they were made, say, in the 19th century during Wilsdorf’s time, fret not because they can be recreated by the Restoration Atelier.
Tucked away in a workshop in Geneva are Master Watchmakers who are specially trained in collector’s timepieces. If there’s anyone you’d trust with your rare Rolex timepiece, it would be this team. These Master Watchmakers are skilled in combining traditional methods with state-of-the-art techniques, ensuring such exceptional historic models can still thrive in the modern era.
Purists can also rest easy, as conducting in-depth historical research to ensure that components can still be perfectly recreated using techniques of the period is also part of the job. Every step of the restoration is documented and traceable, and the restored watch will be returned in a special presentation box accompanied by a personalised booklet.
Luxury timepieces aren’t just expensive accessories or statements of prestige. They are also time capsules and heirlooms that continue to preserve a beautiful tradition that would otherwise be forgotten in this digital era. And just like the past, they deserve to be treated with care.