With the RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire Collection, luxury watchmaker Richard Mille illustrates its unrivalled mastery of coloured sapphire by pushing innovation in transparent and vibrant colours even further. While other brands have flirted with sapphire’s potential, none have taken it on as boldly or extensively as the Swiss manufacture.
FROM TRANSPARENCY TO TECHNICOLOUR
Sapphire’s remarkable properties—second only to diamond in hardness—have made it a desirable material in various high-precision industries. However, its use in watchmaking has been revolutionary. The brand began its journey with the precious gemstone in 2012 when it introduced the RM 056 Tourbillon Split-Seconds Chronograph Sapphire, the first watch in the world to have sapphire exclusively as a case material.
Staying true to its ethos, the maison continued to innovate. In 2015, the RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire introduced coloured sapphire cases. Even though transparent sapphire demands exceptional technical expertise, giving colour to this already challenging canvas added another layer of complexity. Vibrant hues, such as pink, green, orange, and blue, were achieved through incorporating metal oxides into the sapphire’s crystalline lattice.
The development of new colours, like lilac, the latest addition to the RM 07-02 line-up, involves extensive testing to determine the ideal hue. The slightest variations in temperature or growth rate during production can cause imperfections like uneven colours or bubbles. Furthermore, sapphire’s soft, tactile surface gives it a warm, comfortable feel on the wrist, further enhancing its appeal.
New faces in RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire Collection
Richard Mille’s iconic sapphire tonneau case is perhaps its most challenging creation. In addition to its aesthetic appeal and comfort, its elegant, ergonomic lines also present formidable technical challenges. An individual sapphire case requires over 1,000 hours of milling and polishing. In addition, 430 hours go into the preforming and 350 hours into the intricate polishing of the case parts. With tolerances measured in mere microns, perfection is non-negotiable here.
THE SCIENCE BEHIND THE STRENGTH
As a mineral with a Mohs hardness of nine, sapphire is durable enough to withstand daily wear as well as scratches and impacts. Yet, its rigidity makes it notoriously difficult to machine. Using the Kyropoulos method, Richard Mille collaborates with Swiss partner Stettler AG to produce synthetic sapphire.
It involves heating aluminium oxide to temperatures over 2,000 deg C, allowing a small sapphire crystal to act as a seed for slow and precise growth. The result is a block of sapphire weighing several dozen kilos, from which the three parts of a curved Richard Mille watch case are carved. Anti-reflective coatings on the front and rear bezels enhance its optical properties, allowing wearers to admire every detail of the watch’s intricate movements within the cases.
THE ART OF ENGINEERING
In the latest RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire Collection, Richard Mille maintains a high level of innovation. With four dazzling interpretations—two green sapphire versions, gem-set pink sapphire, and lilac sapphire—the collection elevates haute horology to new heights.
An almost hypnotising geometric motif adorns the dial of each crystalline creation. Embraced by gemstones on the dial, bezel, and flange, the sapphire case catches the light at every angle. The perfect finishing touch is a cabochon-set crown.
With the combination of technical brilliance and aesthetic appeal, each timepiece boasts a stunning array of diamonds and vibrant blue or yellow sapphire complemented by a selection of exquisite ornamental stones, including orange spessartite, white agate, green tsavorite, chrysoprase, and malachite.
Richard Mille’s CRMA5 skeletonised automatic movement powers the watches. Depending on the model, the baseplate and bridges are microblasted and chamfered by hand. The diamond set red gold oscillating weight offers luxury and sophistication without ever sacrificing functionality. With a 50-hour power reserve, the self-winding calibre adapts to the wearer’s actions, embodying functional elegance.
Like the watches themselves, Richard Mille’s gemsetting techniques are innovative. Few can imagine, let alone accomplish, the feat of setting diamonds on sapphire. Lasers are needed to perform the strafing, which involves drilling holes with micron-level precision to house the gems. To create each timepiece’s multiple settings, hand-polished gold prongs are crafted separately and then inserted.
The result is a collection that transforms timekeeping into an incredible visual spectacle. Only seven watches are available per reference in the RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire Collection, making each one highly desirable. In the eyes of collectors and connoisseurs, owning such a masterpiece means embracing a legacy of artistry and innovation.
Photos: Richard Mille
