Rarely will you taste rum like the ones in Appleton Estate’s Hearts Collection. Imagine golden ambrosia that blooms with complex flavours often associated with liquors like whisky or wine. An ode to 265 years of craftsmanship, the estate has added new expressions—1993 and 2002—to its selection of rare rums.
They were hand-picked by master blender Joy Spence, in collaboration with rum connoisseur Luca Gargano, to showcase the harmony of flavours in aged rums.
In her opinion, the great value of this collection lies in the fact that they are the estate’s first-ever single marque, 100 percent pot-still rums. What’s more, there are only a few casks available, making them highly exclusive and sought after.
Her passion for pot still rums inspired the Hearts Collection. She finds the “funkiness” intriguing. “I’d like to think that the Hearts Collection offers a true encapsulation of Jamaican terroir,” she says.
As the first female master blender in the industry, Spence’s boundless curiosity led her to create fascinating blends like the ones in this collection. Enamoured with science from a young age, she took a master of science degree and registered the highest final exam scores in the school’s lauded history. That record still stands to this day.
After graduation, Spence returned to Jamaica. Then, in 1981, she became the chief chemist for J. Wray & Nephew Ltd., the maker of Appleton Rum. It was Owen Tulloch, then master blender, who first recognised her aptitude for detecting and differentiating aromas, which launched her career.
“Over the next 16 years, he mentored those sensory skills and expanded my understanding of the rum-making process,” she says. As Tulloch retired, she took over
and turned her passion for blending rums into an obsession.
Spence sees more parallels between science and rum-making than one might expect. Science and art must be perfectly balanced to achieve the latter.
“Science in terms of techniques like fermentation, ageing, and distillation; art in terms of sensory skills.” These include recognising aromas and identifying rums that blend beautifully together.
As master blender, she enjoys introducing rum to people who are unfamiliar or have preconceived notions of the spirit. She acknowledges that it’s a privilege to hold the distinction of first female master blender and hopes to use it as a platform to champion other women finding it hard to break into the field.
“I’ve helped open doors for other women and seen positive change first-hand. There’s more work to be done, and we need to be louder about promoting and encouraging the opportunities for women in this field. But I am proud of how far we’ve come,” she says.
As a woman in a male-dominated industry, she faced her fair share of naysayers in her early career. As a result of the successful rum releases and accolades that followed, these doubts were dispelled. “I didn’t dwell on the negative. Instead, I used every experience as an opportunity to learn and grow,” she reflects.
During the last 40 years, Joy has created various highly awarded rums, including the 8 Year Old Reserve and the Rare Blend 12 Year Old Rare Casks. When asked which expression stood out to her, she says, “Our 8 Year Old Reserve is exceptional for those who are just beginning their exploration of rum, because of its smoothness and robustness.” For collectors, she recommends the Hearts Collection.
When Spence isn’t at the distillery or travelling for work, she relaxes by gardening and experimenting with new cocktails. As it turns out, she drinks a cocktail so often that her team calls it Joy’s Cocktail. It includes 30ml Appleton Estate Reserve, 90ml ginger ale, five drops of Angostura bitters, an orange slice, and an orange peel.
“It’s refreshing and easy to assemble. You can taste the characteristics of the rum used because of its simplicity.”
