While it has remained dormant for the past three centuries, Mount Fuji is still considered an active volcano. But that did not deter Kirin Brewery Company from erecting Fuji Gotemba Distillery at its base 50 years ago. The establishment is the closest in proximity to the iconic peak compared to competitors and the privilege is rewarding: the surrounding temperature, humidity and air pressure results in the production of a unique whisky.
Having already broken into the French, American and Australian markets, the brand recently made its way to our shores. Fuji Whisky master blender Jota Tanaka, a renowned authority on Japanese whisky blending, tells us more about snow-filtered water, distillation conditions and two notable offerings in the range.
A key ingredient in Fuji Whisky is snowmelt that has been naturally filtered underground for half a century. Does it influence the flavour?
I usually explain that the water we use to make whisky comes from rain and snow filtered by Mount Fuji. Research has shown that rain and snowfall at altitudes above 2,000m on the the mountain trickles to an underground aquifer and reaches beneath the distillery just 100m deep. The water takes around 50 years to reach the distillery and is polished, so it is crystal clear, pristine, and soft. We draw from the water directly. It is the gift from Mount Fuji that gives our whisky local flavour and character.
How does the climate in the area influence production?
Fuji Gotemba Distillery was commissioned in 1973 after evaluating multiple sites across the country. Our location was selected due to the high-quality water source and ideal climatic conditions for whisky-making. The altitude of the distillery is 620m above sea level, and thus temperature and barometric pressure are a little different from most other distilleries.
We benefit from having cool temperatures, with an average annual temperature of 13°C, clean air, and high moisture content due to fog occurring throughout the year. Our whisky slowly and gently matures in this pure atmosphere, purified by a deep forest.
Fuji Whisky is agedinbourbon casks. Why the use of American oak instead of, say, Japanese Mizunara oak?
American white oak Bourbon barrels have been considered an ideal barrel for high-quality whisky ageing worldwide. Compared to other types of barrels, the ex-bourbon barrel is the best for our house style.
Mizunara oak barrels can impart a unique andexotic flavor. Still, it takes more than 15 years of ageing in Mizunara oak cask to get such characteristics. Its unique characteristics are effective as a flavour component, but not desirable as the main flavour component.
A notable offering in the range is the Single Grain Whiskey 30 YO. What differentiates Fuji Whisky’s iteration from other aged whiskies in the market?
Fuji Whisky’s 30-Year Single Grain Whiskey is a blend of multiple maturates of Canadian style grain whiskies aged more than 30-years, including some aged for nearly 40-years. I meticulously selected barrels and blended them to create a rich, luscious, beautifully balanced style with complexity.
Our Canadian-style grain whiskey is very different from grain whisky in general in terms of distillation, which is conducted in batch distillation so that flavour is richer than conventional grain whisky.
Another offering is the Single Blended 2022 Masterpiece. Why the distinction of ‘masterpiece’? How does it stand out?
We labelled this product ‘masterpiece’ as it was the first to pioneer the category of ‘single blended’. We have been producing it for for decades, but it is the inaugural product holding this category name in whisky history, not only limited to Japan but worldwide. It is the first product officially approved to hold the category name introduced to the market in 2022.
Looking back at the history and state of the global whisky industry, we realised the significance and characteristics of our existence. Unlike any other distillery in the world, we are the only distillery where malt whisky and various grain whiskey are made on-site. Most importantly, all of the blend’s components are fermented, distilled and matured at a single distillery in the foothills of Mount Fuji. This gives Fuji’s Single Blend a sense of terroir, the unique characteristics of the local environment and climate that influence the flavor of the whisky.
No other whisky in the world is made by the same craftsmen with the same water source and distilled and aged in the same environment. Fuji Single Blended 2022 Masterpiece contains whisky with an average age of about 15 years and includes components that are more than 30 years of age. The whisky has been blended in ex-bourbon barrels as well as ex-red wine casks and beer barrels.
What’s your go-to blend for winding down after a long day?
Fuji Sparkling. I named it by myself. It comprises Fuji Single Blended Japanese Whisky and sparkling water, mixed one to three or one to four, and served in a champagne flute glass.No ice is used. The whisky, sparkling water, and the flute glass are all chilled to a crisp. Pour them into the glass, and voila! It’s great for relaxing and savouring and you can watch the bubbles just like with champagne.
