Cillian Murphy attends the 96th Annual Academy Awards on March 10, 2024 in Hollywood, California.
Photo: JC Olivera.

Oppenheimer swept the Oscars with wins for best picture, best director for Christopher Nolan, and best supporting actor for Robert Downey Jr. But all eyes were on Cillian Murphy, the first Irish-born actor to take home the best actor award.

The leading man took to the red carpet in a custom Atelier Versace suit, matched by a bespoke brooch by Hong Kong-based design house Sauvereign. Designed by Bertrand Mak, the HS14 Gem Brooch was created for the actor for the 96th Academy Awards.

Inspired by the actor’s role in the star-studded biopic thriller, its bespoke design pays homage to the exceptional ability of the world-changing physicist behind the Manhattan Project. The Gem’s minimal yet mesmerising aesthetic alludes to his strong, silent demeanour. Featuring fundamental forms that reveal depth and complex nuances upon closer inspection, the HS14 is equal parts reticent and dignified, radiant and brilliant.

“Enigmatic, composed, and reverberating—these were the words in mind when I envisioned a bespoke object for Cillian Murphy and for this particular occasion. These characteristics not only refer to the respected actor, but I believe are applicable to the complex history as well as character that he brings to life in his performance,” says Bertrand Mak.

Crafted in solid yellow gold, the HS14 is composed of eight concentric trapeziums— the shape of interior components in Oppenheimer’s history-altering invention.

Meticulously hand-cut, hand finished, and assembled by legendary grandmaster Kari Voutilainen in Val-de-Travers, Switzerland, the Gem presented a novel and unexpected challenge for the Finnish independent watchmaker.

Embellished with sunburst guilloché, a highly precise engraving technique signature to Voutilainen, the surface of each trapezium reveals intricate details across its facade. Reminiscent of light rays emitting from the core, the motif recalls the perpetuity of the sun and the blinding flash of beauty right before darkness arrives.

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