When Chanel reimagined its J12 in a moody new shade of blue this year, it didn’t stop at just one—or even three—watches.
Described by Arnaud Chastaingt, Director of the Chanel Watchmaking Creation Studio, as “a blue that is nearly black or a black that is nearly blue”, it took five years to perfect and now anchors an entire collection.
The J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon, powered by Chanel’s first in-house tourbillon movement, introduced in 2022, stands out.
Known for its circular architecture and seamless symmetry, the movement features a flying tourbillon suspended without a top bridge to create the illusion of weightlessness. At its centre, a 65-facet diamond, Gabrielle Chanel’s favourite stone, adds brilliance to the open-worked blue dial. Measuring 0.18 cts, it punches well above its weight in visual impact, thanks to its exclusive cut.
The bezel is set with 34 baguette-cut sapphires, catching the light with every flick of the wrist. Adding a final flourish, the sides of the highly resistant ceramic case and bracelet have been hand-polished for eight hours to elevate the watch’s already refined presence.
With the J12 Bleu X-Ray, Chanel pays tribute to the art of transparency and introduces a new variant of the blue, this time inspired by the sea and a clear sky. It took more than 1,600 hours to sculpt the case and bracelet from synthetic sapphire.
There are 196 baguette-cut vivid blue sapphires set in the bezel and links of this white gold watch. Then, to create contrast, Chanel Creation Studio used white gold with black accents—an elegant complement to its aquatic palette.
The house’s calibre 3.1 movement features a sapphire base plate, timer bridge, and cogwheel bridge, giving the illusion that the gears are floating. In keeping with the ethereal effect, the floating bridge, also made of sapphire, is set with 12 bright blue baguette-cut stones marking the hours. With more than 16 cts of blue sapphires, this piece is limited to eight pieces.
The perfect his and hers, the J12 Bleu 42mm Sapphires and J12 Bleu 28mm Sapphires are a Maxi & Mini pairing set with blue sapphires on the bezel, dial and bracelet. The vivid sparkle of the natural sapphires against the matte blue ceramic produces a dynamic contrast of light and depth.
To achieve that, it took more than 110 hours to set the 42mm with 170 sapphires and the 28mm with 196 sapphires. Additionally, the 42mm is powered by Chanel’s COSCcertified calibre 12.1, a self-winding movement finished in black—a signature of the brand’s haute horlogerie line—while the 28mm runs on a quartz movement.
Last but not least, the J12 Bleu 38mm Sapphires is a great option for those who prefer a little more discretion. The 58 natural baguette-cut sapphires mirror the rich blue of the ceramic case, offering a more understated take. A COSCcertified calibre 12.1 keeps quiet time—a sleek display of Chanel’s gem-setting and watchmaking prowess.
