Bell & Ross has introduced the urban-minded BR 05 in all ceramic and all black for the first time. Launched relatively recently in 2019, the BR 05 collection represents an evolution of the brand’s utilitarian watchmaking. It was conceived primarily as a response to collectors seeking a 1970s-styled, sports-chic timepiece with an integrated bracelet. Bell & Ross has undeniably achieved its goal with great success while maintaining its unique approach to watch design.
Speaking on the occasion of the BR 05’s launch, Bruno Belamich, Bell & Ross’ co-founder and creative director, explained the new design, stating, “This integration of case and bracelet is not only in line with the brand’s visual identity, it also brings another dimension to the watch: the first link forms part of the case. This type of design harks back to the Seventies, and when transposed to Bell & Ross, it creates a result with a graphic style which is both striking and modern.”
Bell & Ross has long been an expert in ceramics. However, producing ceramic watch components requires precise sintering of a mixture of zirconium oxide powder and polymer binders that must be vitrified at temperatures as high as 1450°C. This operation is sensitive and crucial for producing homogeneous ceramic for reliable watch components. Bell & Ross has consistently pushed this competency as the qualities of ceramic continue to be of interest to the brand due to its scratch resistance, lightweight nature, comfort, and hypoallergenic properties.
The new BR 05 Black Ceramic combines the chic stylings of the BR 05 with Bell & Ross’ ceramic expertise. However, realising the new ceramic BR 05 was not without its challenges. Producing the BR 05 case and bracelet in black ceramic, with all its curves and angles, required some rethinking. For example, black tends to convey a lesser visual mass, prompting Bell & Ross to size up the BR 05 case to 41mm, a first for the BR 05 silhouette.
The BR 05 Black Ceramic trio includes three variations. The first features a solid black face with sunray treatment and white super-luminova indications on the dial, housed in a polished, satin-finished black ceramic case. Powering the timepiece is the self-winding calibre BR-CAL.321 with a 54-hour power reserve.
The second variation, the BR 05 Skeleton Black Ceramic, boasts a skeletonised black tinted transparent dial, offering a view of the black rhodium-plated self-winding calibre BR-CAL.322 underneath. The dial features appliqué indices and hands filled with white super-luminova. The 41mm black ceramic case of the watch is satin-finished and polished. Like the first variant, this comes with a black ceramic or rubber bracelet.
The third variation, the BR 05 Skeleton Black Lum Ceramic, is produced in a limited run of 500 pieces and features a black smoked sapphire crystal dial that reveals the self-winding calibre BR-CAL.322. It features appliqué indices and skeletonised hour and minute hands filled with C5 super-luminova for ultimate readability in the dark. The BR 05 Skeleton Black Lum Ceramic case is made of matt black sandblasted ceramic and will be offered with a similarly treated black ceramic bracelet.
Bell & Ross has consistently emphasised that its primary design inspiration stems from aircraft cockpits and their onboard instruments. This is evident from the combination of black and stark white markings that resonate well with their timepieces. The BR 05 Black Ceramic trio reaffirms this quality yet again.
