In luxury, the term icon is often a hollow superlative. While nature provides abundant flora and fauna icons for designers to adopt and repeat, crafting a motif from scratch and integrating it into a brand’s genetic code through craftsmanship is a true skill. Chanel’s quilted pattern represents that imprint.
What founder Gabrielle Chanel first envisioned as an original stitching for handbags has become a permanent architectural element in the Coco Crush fine jewellery collection, translating a graphic legacy into structural gold. However, establishing a motif was only the first step; the real challenge was designing a blueprint that transcends fleeting trends. For the house, this involved establishing a unique geometric identity that has remained unmistakable for decades.
Coco Crush’s architecture is based on a thoughtful combination of shape and precision, starting with curved squares that convey fullness and femininity. These forms are punctuated by incisions that give the collection its signature rigour. The edges are outlined by “festoons”—sinuous, wavy forms that accentuate its sensory quality—while a domed profile mirrors the pouffe of quilted leather.
This year, more than a decade since the collection was first launched, Chanel has pushed its technical limits by introducing unexpected flexibility to the metal. This evolution is highlighted in two necklaces: one designed to rest on the collarbone, the other a close-fitting choker.
These flexible iterations are engineered to behave like a second skin, mimicking the drape of a ribbon. To achieve this, a hidden mesh is integrated beneath the quilted incisions, forming an articulated chain of motifs that allows the gold to move with the fluidity of fabric. The result is a fit as precise as a tailored glove, secured by a sliding clasp that allows for bespoke adjustment.
As well as these technical feats, the collection expands through a number of graphic additions. New rings emphasise the “C” initial, punctuated by a single diamond—a nod to Mademoiselle Chanel’s philosophy that the stone represents “the greatest value in the smallest volume”. In a singular, asymmetrical statement, this play on branding also extends to a new ear cuff that pairs white and beige gold which strengthens the line’s versatility without diluting its visual shorthand.
As a matter of course, keeping true icons relevant also requires periodic refinement. So, just as Chanel modernised its Coco Crush bracelets with the Coco Twist—an invisible rotating clasp—the house has now improved its Coco Crush cuffs and pave clip earrings. These new iterations feature more pronounced incisions and refined curves, engineered for a more ergonomic fit. A subtle recalibration that ensures the collection remains as comfortable as it is recognisable.
To contextualise these releases, Chanel introduced a 360-degree campaign centred on a game of Hide & Seek at the iconic Chateau Marmont in Los Angeles, emphasising the collection’s philosophy of celebrating serendipitous encounters where chance and destiny intersect.
It featured a constellation of Chanel ambassadors—Gracie Abrams, Jennie Kim, Amandla Stenberg, Lucy Boynton, and Mona Tougaard—who traversed the hotel’s legendary corridors. Throughout this choreographed pursuit, the jewellery moved constantly, demonstrating that while the quilted motif remains a fixed brand imprint, its character is entirely shaped by the wearer.
